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Fifty Ways To Tweak Your Lover.
Setting
Your VTA -- A Non-technical Explanation
by Sedrick Harris sedrick@melos.com
This is an article on how to properly set the Vertical
Tracking Angle (VTA) of your cartridge by first looking and then listening. To adjust your
VTA properly, you need to find the adjustment on the base (post where the arm is mounted
to the turntable) of your pickup arm that allows you to raise or lower the back (the end
opposite of where your cartridge is) of your tonearm. Look at your owners manual (if you
still have it), go to the audio dealer from whom you purchased it or contact the
manufacturer for help in finding out how to make this adjustment. CAUTION: On most
tonearms, you will NOT be able to adjust the VTA while playing a record or with the stylus
even resting on a record (without destroying the record and/or cartridge cantilever or
stylus). YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
For initial setup of your VTA, place a medium thickness
album (no 180 gram re-issues or flabby RCA Dyna-flex Red Seals) on the turntable and place
the stylus on the record (do not have the turntable rotating for these adjustments). With
the stylus resting on this medium thickness album, the bottom of the cartridge should be
parallel to the album. By this, I mean the flat area near the front of the cartridge where
the cantilever / stylus assembly protrudes from the bottom of the cartridge. CAUTION: Make
all adjustments on the tonearm with it sitting on the tonearm rest. You now have a good
starting point to find where the nominal VTA setting is located for your arm / cartridge
combination. Select 3 records from your collection with which you are familiar. You will
use them to find fine tune the nominal starting point for your VTA adjustment. One of them
should be what I will call a normal thickness album (London CS 6xxx or STS 15xxx (orange -
silver label), RCA Shaded Dog, non 180 gm. Chesky, etc.). The next should be a thick album
(Decca or EMI reissue, Mobile Fidelity 2-xxx series, etc.). The third album should be a
thin album like an RCA Dyna-flab.
After setting the starting point of your VTA session using
your eyesight, listen to a section of all 3 albums. What you want to listen for is the
senority of the strings, the "air" around the instruments and the width of the
hall. If you set your VTA correctly for nominal thickness albums, you will hear the
following:
1.The medium thickness album will have extended stage
width, a hint of air or rich harmonics around the individual instruments and singing in
the upper strings without any stridency.
2.The thin album will have good stage width but the strings
will sound unnatural, edgy and irritating.
3.The thick album will sound slightly muffled, with a lack
of high frequencies and air around the instruments.
If this is not what you hear in your comparison, your VTA
is not set properly for medium thickness albums. If the thin album sounds correct, the
back or base of your tonearm needs to be raised about 0.010" (0.4mm) (the thickness
of a cover of Ultimate Audio) for medium thickness albums. If the thick album
sounds correct, the base of your tonearm needs to be lowered about 0.010" (250
micrometers) for medium thickness albums. A few passes at this and you will learn what to
listen for when you adjust your Vertical Tracking Angle.
To reiterate, once you have found the correct VTA setting
for a medium thickness album, you can use this starting point when you want to adjust your
VTA for best sonics. For very thin albums (flabby Red Seal), or Angel and late Columbia,
you will have to lower the back of the tonearm by as much as 0.005". For very thick
albums and many of the Decca, Classic or EMI reissues, you will have to raise the back of
the tonearm by as much as 0.010" or 0.015". Also remember that during the course
of the life of your cartridge, the nominal setting will change as the cantilever ages and
flexes making it sound as if the back of the tonearm is too low. After a short period of
time of focusing on the sound (and not the music), you will learn to identify when the VTA
is adjusted properly. After this adjustment is correctly made, listen and enjoy the music.
Sedrik has written for a few 'high-end' magazines.
(Said like Tweety Bird)
Neeyap, i taught i saw a Putty Tat!
Ok, so again the cheapskate in me looks though a catalog
and see Blu-Tak selling for $10 plus shipping. TEN BUCKS FOR STICKY PLASTIC?!?!?!
Man-O-MAN, there's gotta be something cheaper! So off to Home Depot hardware store for
some research. Ya know, some great ideas come from traveling to really big
hardware stores. New high quality power outlets at real-world prices, cable ideas... But
let's get back to this tweak. So as i get to the paint section there's this stuff called
Mounting Putty by Manco Inc. WOW, it's just like Blu-Tak and a two ounce package will set
ya back only $1.47!!! Oh joy oh joy :-{)+ . Rapture! All ya gotta do is simply roll an
appropriate sized ball of it between your fingers until warm and then stick it where it's
needed. No muss, no fuss. It will kinda leave a small oily spot when you remove it from
the bottom of your stuff, but they're usually made of wood or metal. Using some Old
English polish (or light oil) easily removes all of it (and isn't it about time you
carefully dust off the bottom of your equipment anyway). The cool thing here is using this
stuff to attach tonecones to the equipment! Yep, just use a small ball of it to firmly
attach those tonecones and your music reproduction system may sound even better! Used this
trick for the tonecones under my turntable and she sings sweet songs better then ever. One
package of this stuff should do your entire system too. So forget those high priced
'audiophile approved' products and save some of that extra cash for a new snowboard.
Sufferin' sukatash, winters just around the corner!
Manco Inc.
32150 Just Imagine Dr.
Avon, OH 44011
voice 1-800-321-0253
Zap That Static
Clean!
Another month, another Audio Advisor catalog. Flippin'
through it was this cool device for discharging static electricity. When i lived in hot
'n' humid Florida there was no reason to worry about that stuff. Unfortunately moving to
New Hampshire has changed all that (and electrified my love life). The unit offered by
Audio Advisor sells for $39.95 plus shipping. What if i told ya you can make your very own
static ZAP thingy for only $5 maximum! Let's face it, static electricity can be
annoying and possibly dangerous to our precious gear. Especially those of us with
turntables. Last thing you want is one of those good static pops going through your music
reproduction system which in turn makes a loud pop sound through your speakers. YIKES!!! .
Those of you who have installed computer chips will realize that one good static pop can
bring that expensive 200mHz MMX microprocessor from being the finest steak in the state to
the worst meatloaf you ever ate.
Making this is so simple that it should take you only ten
minutes! First you need a good sized piece of metal that conducts electricity. Something,
say, one inch square. If you have some old lead fishing weights laying around like i do,
that'll be great! Now all you need to do is use some of that crummy ol' 18 gauge copper
wire that comes with most el cheapo home or car stereo speakers. Radio Shack (Tandy) also
probably has some scrap 18 gauge wire that they'll give ya for free. We only need about
six feet of that stuff and if you're like most of my friends you probably have much more
of that stuff in a drawer or box somewhere (check the cloths closet). Strip off about one
inch from one side of the wire, and half an inch from the other side. Now all you haveta
do is tie the one inch stripped wire to the loop on the fishing weight. Basically what cha
want is a good electrical connection from whatever you use to the wire. Now it's time to
ground this puppy. Unscrew the center bolt from your walls electrical outlet plate.
Connect the side of the wire with the half inch stripped away to the center screw located
on the electrical outlet on the wall. Then simply attach the plate and screw back into the
outlet. Ya see, that center screw on the outlet is connected to the home's ground system.
Simply place the fishing weight with the wire connected to
it somewhere that's:
a) not touching your components (especially metal casings)
b) that's easy to reach before you touch any of your
components
VAH-WALLA!!! You're, like, there dude. Now all you haveta
do is simply touch this just before you touch any of
your components. That static charge will be attracted to the unit and harmlessly be
discharged to your homes grounding system. Lessee here, over forty dollars for the thing
in the Audio Advisor catalog, less then five bucks for my ditty. i'll concede that the
thing in the Audio Advisor looks prettier. But aren't we all cheapskates deep inside?
Speaking of static electricity, the Audio Advisor now carries the Zerostat gun ($49.95 +
shipping) for vinyl freaks like me. Now there's a good tool if you feel you must
spend some money with the Audio Advisor. As always, if you have any questions,
please feel free to lemme know before you do anything.
Addition by a very knowledgeable reader wrote:
From: Dilip <sathe_dilip@bah.com>
Subject: Zap That Static Clean!
I was visiting your web site and read the "Zap That Static Clean!" tweaking tip.
The idea is good and your precautions about placement of the gadget should take care of
most likely problems. However, I have worked in production environments and studied some
of the commercial products offered for static protection. The standard practice is to
connect the (antistatic mat/wrist band etc.) grounding wire/conductor to ground through a
1 Meg Ohm series resister. This ensures dissipation of any static charges but prevents one
from getting a solid ground connection in case one happens to be touching a live surface
at the same time - thus from getting a shock.
Vinyl Thoughts
So you made the leap and bought your very first turntable,
coolness! Now you read about VTA, tracking force, mats, stands... Setting up a CD player
was so easy. Connect the transport the the DAC and off you went. No cleaning, no real
setting it up. So how does one get the best outta their turntable? There are no
hard 'n' fast rules here folks and this article will surely start various debates too.
What works for my turntable may not work for yours. Hopefully this
article will at least give ya some insight.
VTA mean Vertical Tracking Angle. On the cartridges i've used, changing the angle the
tonearm is to the vinyl record mainly effects the timing and to some extent the amount of
the bass. By moving the tonearm upward the bass gets faster. The lower frequencies seem to
be reproduces more and more ahead of the higher frequencies the higher you adjust it.
The tracking force seems to change the harmonics, and more subtly the timing of the bass.
Less force = less bass and more highs. More force = more bass and less highs. It's a finer
adjustment to VTA. Always try to use the higher tracking force first, then adjust the VTA.
If you too lightly track the vinyl your needle may skip and other things which may damage
the vinyl may occur. Please use a heavier force.
Mats stink. Maybe it's my turntable, but the acrylic platter on my VOYD hates mats. Some
mats also conduct static electricity which is not desired. When your needle 'releases'
this static you'll hear a loud pop through your system. Not a good thing my friends. Using
a humidifier in low humidity conditions may help ya out here. Humidifiers were found all
over at the WCES. Las Vegas, the site of the WCES, is notorious for very low humidity and
therefore many turntable manufactures use humidifiers to help reduce or eliminate the
possibility of static electricity.
My turntable loves it when i use tone cones underneath it. By attaching these cones to the
underneath of the turntable with Blu-Tac the quiets got quieter and the tables ability to
not react to outside vibrations is enhanced.
As for stands, some say that the stand you use will directly dictate the way your
turntable reproduces music. A heavy stand makes the music sound heavy. A light table may
make the music sound light. My favorite turntable stand is the IKEA LACK stand. It's
lightweight yet rigid. The stand for the Goldmund Reference turntable is also of this
variety (light yet rigid). Air bladders may work better for your turntable (and mats too).
There are definitely no hard 'n' fast rules here my friends.
Hopefully these few humble suggestions and information will assist you in setting up your
turntable. If you have any questions on certain turntable types please feel free to e-mail
your questions to me. If i'm not sure i'll make sure to direct your question to someone
who hopefully will know the answer. Always glad to be of service. Just as there are many
different types of turntable designs, there are many different different answers
depending on the exact turntable/arm/cartridge combination used. Above all else please
remember that building a turntable one should use a system approach. A great cartridge
with the wrong arm is not a trip to happyville. A great turntable with the wrong tonearm
is also not good in my humble opinion. When buying a turntable please adhere to the system
approach. So how does one know when their turntable is setup properly? Easy! When
you start buying more and more of the music you enjoy on vinyl. Kick back, grab your
favorite beverage and...
Enjoy the music!
Setting
Up Loudspeakers In A Rectangular Room
by George Cardas
Very precise speaker placement can open up a whole new dimension in listening, so I will
outline the system that is becoming the standard of the industry. The Audio Engineering
Society's (AES) standard listening room is a model of the math used in this system and is
the room used for illustration. This method will work with any panel or box speaker, in
any reasonable sized rectangular room. You may find that you have already positioned your
speakers this way by ear.
The AES standard listening room is a Golden Cuboid 10' x 16' x 26'. It's dimensions
progress in the golden ration or Flbonacci sequence ( 5-8-13-21-34...). Three major nodes
created within the listening space are indivisible, and therefor will null rather than
beat. The math used to create this perfect listening space can also be applied to speaker
placement within any listening space.
The key to this formula is the ratio Phi (.6180339887... to 1 or 1 to 1.6180339887... ).
The three major room nodes are created by the distances:
Ceiling to floor
Side wall to side wall
Front wall to back wall
To determine the initial placement, multiply ceiling height by .618 (10' x .618 = 6.18' )
to determine the distance from the rear wall to the center of the woofer (or the acoustic
center of the panel).
Then multiply the room width by .276 (width divided by 18 x 5 ) to determine the distance
from the side wall to the center of the speaker. ( 16' divided by 18 x 5 = 4.4' ). At this
point place the speakers on tiptoes, one in front, two in the back. If the speakers are
not very heavy, i suggest throwing a bag of lead shot on top of them. Play the system for
a few hours and then fine tune their position. Usually speakers will not have to be moved
more than one inch. Don't forget to damp the first reflection points.
A humble thanks go out to Mr. George Cardas who allowed us all to share in
this article he wrote.
Click here to view
room setup diagram.
Click here to go to Cardas' homepage.
What Can You Get For Free?
Ha! That's too easy. Some of you may say nothing's free. And usually you'd
be 100% right. But after some soul searching and hearing how your web browser won't
download the FREE 2 point protractor i've offered on my "Free Stuff" page a
decision had to be made. Called a few magazine dudes to see if, FOR FREE, they wanted to
include the 2 point protractor for their loyal readers. Can ya believe a popular
vinyl/music based magazine declined after repeated e-mails back and forth and even a phone
call!!! My feelings were that if any magazine's readers needed a cartridge alignment tool
it would be this one. Well, i was kinda discouraged, but then the word got out... Primyl
Vinyl wanted them, so did Sound Practices, so did... So quickly forgetting that other rag
(let their readers pay upwards of $25+ for it from one of their advertisers) while other
magazine readers get it for free. Acoustic Sounds jumped at the chance too. They've got
hundreds of 'em! The Audio Adventure, can ya believe it, gave them away at the WCES as did
Acoustic Sounds. At the WCES folks accosted me and said, "YO STEVE, gimme one of them
famous 2 point protractors!"
So here's the deal, just see my "Free Stuff" page to find out
how you can get your very own FREE 2 point alignment protractor for your turntable. They
say the best things in life are free :-{)+ . And as for that one and only music/vinyl
based 'zine that didn't want it, THANKS! i've been swamped with requests for it by many
other 'zines and have virtually run out of the first batch. In other words, you've save me
money (though not your readers :-{(+ ). Take care cool dudettes/dudes and until next
week...
Enjoy the Music!
Click here to go to my "Free
Stuff" page to claim
your very own 2 point protractor available worldwide!
Cheap Tweaks
That Sound Like
A MILLION BUCKS!!!
The below article was reprinted, with permission, from a really cool
vinyl/tweak 'zine called Primyl Vinyl. i just got "turned on" to it and
MAN-O-MAN may i humbly suggest ya get a subscription and the back issues too. He's the
ONLY source i know of a virtually COMPLETE Harry Pearson recommended recordings list
(October 1996 issue) and well as many other good articles. Look, i AINT commercial, if his
magazine sucked i'd cancel it like i have quite a few others recently. Anyway, here's just
a SMALL sampling for ya. With my most humble gratitude goes out to Bruce for allowing it
to be reprinted and seen here on the internet for the very first time. Go on with your bad
self brother Bruce!
CHEAP TWEAKS
Welcome to Cheap Tweaks, wherein we explore
that curious urge, seemingly pervasive within the
audiophile community, which drives otherwise normal
individuals to seek ultimate audio nirvana via the
topical application of various gizmos to high
performance (and high priced) componentry. To read
to the audiophile press, buying a $3000 amplifier simply
leads one inexorably towards $500 isolation feet,
a $300 dedicated stand, a $200 power cord with a
hospital grade plug (no wise remarks here), $225
"electronic stabilizer", $700 power line filter,
various $100+ tuning dots-and-discs, etc. -each
of which "opens up the sound stage, increases
dynamic contrasts and delineates inner voices
(or here either), and Lifts a Veil Enabling Previously
Unnoticed Detail to Emerge". And yes, by most reports,
many of these things actually do work as advertised,
and can make the $3000 amp seem sonically
competitive with...a $5000 amp?
OK, so this is the kind of thing, even more than
painting the edges of CDs green*, that gives audiophilia
expensiva a bad name, especially amongst the many
collectors who prefer to put their money where the
music is (i.e. more records, tapes, and CDs) and who
buy their Consumers Reports-approved electronics at
Circuit City-on sale. The very idea of a $3000 amplifier
is mind-boggling to many; why buy even a $300 amplifier
when you can get a top-rated A-V Receiver with all
the bells and whistles for $279... Well, because the
odds are the $300 amp sounds better, maybe more
like the $3000 amp than like the receiver. Once one
gets to the point of thinking amplifiers can and do
sound different (and you can still get plenty of argument
on that alone), then one can begin to wonder if
some appropriate tweaking might make even the
inexpensive amp sound better. But will a $300 amp
with $2000 worth of audiophile tweaks be "sonically
competitive" with a $2300 amp? Interesting question.
There are quite a few audiophiles out there with
1950's vintage Dynaco, Citation, and similar tube
amps with several hundred $$ invested in upgraded
tubes, capacitors, resistors, and wire. But, basically,
there's not much sense in pricey tweaks for less
than kilobuck components. What the real world
needs is Cheap Tweaks.
We got 'em. Or more correctly, we found 'em. In
this issue of PVX we discuss several products which
are more or less the functional equivalents of Genuine
Audiophile Accessories costing ten or twenty times as
much. At $2-5 each, these are the sorts of things one
might invest in and still retain a certain fiscal liquidity
sufficient to encourage subscribing to a journal like
PVX, for instance. However, they are not advertised
in Stereophile, and you can't buy them at your local
Stereo Shoppe, let alone Circuit City. You can't even
buy them from PVX, but we will tell you where you can.
(Drumroll). Our secret source (even they don't know
this) for the ultra cheap in audio chic is a mail-order outfit
out of Skokie, IL called American Science & Surplus
(847 982-0870, http://www.sciplus.com). Established
about 1937, and previously known as JerryCo, they
specialize in industrial and military surplus, scientific
and lab apparatus, and, uh, well, you know, like,
uh, toys? That's right, some of the most cost-effective
audio tweaks around started out as stocking stuffers.
If you have a problem with that, don't just stop reading.
Seek out a neutral observer, perhaps your spouse or
significant other, and together engage in a meaningful
dialogue which explores the complex psychological
reverberations arising from the interaction of the phrase
"stereo system" and the concept "toys". Feel better now?
In fact, the kinds of "toys" that ASS (one cute
corporate acronym, eh?) proffers are "science toys",
often made of unusual materials and designed to
demonstrate scientific phenomena. Mass production,
cheap packaging, and not having to advertise in
Stereophile means the above-average third-grader
can afford them. They also tend to have funny names.
Consider ASS item 39129 "Happy and Unhappy Balls",
$3.95. The Happy Ball is standard, high bouncing
neoprene. Give it to the cat. The Unhappy Ball is
made from "a proprietary compound" (Norsorex) which
exhibits very high hysteresis (and a low coefficient of
restitution), i.e. the molecular structure results in internal
friction which retards the natural tendency of rubber to
return to its original shape after deformation from shock
or vibration. The instructions indicate the Balls actually
come from Edmund Scientific (P6-1000), detail the
chemical formulation, and suggests you "ask your
students to think of practical uses...they might surprise
you with their creative answers". Like putting them in
1" plastic table leg tips and placing them under stereo
components? How do they compare with the 3 for
$55 Audioprism Isobearings, balls of the same size,
also made of "a proprietary compound", and equally
unhappy to bounce? Decide for yourself.
Next is ASS item 89436 "Sticky Balls" (Who thinks
these names up?), 4 for $2.50. 1.75" hemispheres
of "Memory Gel", a tacky polymer substance both
icky and effective at damping vibration. Excellent
under turntables subject to acoustic feedback (use
as many as necessary). For greater load bearing, stick
two together in a 1/2" section of 1.5" I.D. tubing,
which results in something comparable to the Deflex
Foculpod tacky polymer damping foot (3 for $35).
For vibration-draining "cones" order ASS 23133
"Rascal Top", 3 for $2.25. Hollow steel, 1.25"dia x 2",
elegantly turned out, paint' em or they'll rust. Fill with
Mortite, or if your speakers are threaded for spikes,
embed bolt in Bondo. (We used nylon bolts and put
the cones in 35mm film cans for filling). Much higher
WAF than spikes, much cheaper than commercial
"toes and feet" ($10-50 apiece).
But enough toys. ASS 20465 "Ribbon Cable Shielding"
is just that: a vinyl/copper cable wrap, 4-3/4" x 8 ft,
designed to shield cable from EMI/RF, complete with
double-stick tape and embedded copper grounding
wires. Slit in half for audio cables, or overlap short lengths
to reduce inter-component interference. At $2.50, a
fraction of the cost of Audiophile "Cable Jackets" ($50-150).
Ever curious about those $1000 audiophile "passive
pre-amps"-basically a stepped attenuator in a box?
ASS 24524 Decade Resistor Kit provides the rotary
switches, metal film precision axial lead resistors, and
a schematic, for $6.50. Of course you need two for
stereo, jacks and a box. Nothing Vishay about this bargain.
The back side of your components a rat's nest of
jumbled wires? ASS 4138 has 25 Voltrex D-clips for $2.50,
your basic little adhesive backed cable clamps. They also
have a variety of sizes and flavors of plastic mesh tubing
used to sleeve interconnects and speaker cables-page
12 of catalog #92-@.10-.25/ft. Worried that the MDF
shelf under your turntable is too resonant? ASS 23932
is a 19"x 22"x 1/4" adhesive foam rubber pad, $3.
Stick it to the bottom of the shelf, or for that matter, to
any metal or plastic component enclosure that clangs
when you tap it. ASS 23935 is a thinner, more flexible
foam, 10"x 10 feet, a true bargain at a mere $2.
Wish you had a VPI, Nitty-Gritty, or Keith Monks
vacuum record cleaner instead of that cheesy little
Discwasher thing? ASS 25959 is a 8 Amp fan cooled
vacuum motor, $12.50. We hope to have a DIY plan for
this sucker ready for an upcoming PVX article, but why
wait? Design your own and send in a description. A free
subscription for the best design under $50.
The latest in high-end audio isolation systems are
supported by air and/or silicone filled "bladders", in the
$100 to $1700 range. (We'd also love to give a free
subscription to PVX to the lady who wrote Stereophile
suggesting the inflatable ring designed for hemorrhoid
sufferers did wonders under her CD player. Please write!).
ASS 23704 is an 11x14 inflatable pillow, actually 2 for
$2.00. Similar, double walled bladders are ASS 22868
(13x15, 4 for $1) and 22871 (16x18, 3 for $1). I do
know the Well-Tempered/Transparent Audio folks will
sell their silicone damping fluid direct, or you might check
with your local plastic surgeon. Put them under a piece
of MDF, or marble, or acrylic, or...?
American Science & Surplus sends out a new catalog
each month, and most of the items rotate and re-appear.
Many of the above were in #92, but #93 had mostly
rubber animals, tools, and lab stuff. You never know
what will show up. The point of this whole exercise,
we feel, is that tweaking doesn't have to be either
esoteric or expensive to be effective. Are these low rent
replicas as good as the high ticket items they resemble?
If not, are they half as good for one tenth the price?
Will they do until you can afford the real thing? If a
$2 tweak improves the sound, can you stand not
knowing what something actually designed for the
purpose can do for $20, or $200, or even $2000? There
are many other sources of useful tweaks out there,
cheap and not so. The Tweakers Roundtable exists
to seek them out and let you know what's what. Your job
is to let us know about the tweaks you've found work...
or don't!
* Presumably, painting the inner and outer edges of a
CD reduces the scattering of the laser beam (by absorbing
the particular laser wavelength) which reads the pits on
the disc, thus improving the datastream accuracy,
reducing error correction, etc. It works well enough that
some audiophiles paint the entire topside of the disc
green-a few go so far as to paint the entire inside
of the transport mech-anism. The Official Audiophile
Versions are paint pens which go in the $15-20 range.
We've found that the UNIPOSCA #PC-5M pen is
"remarkably similar", and is usually available through
art supply stores for $2. We get ours at Charrettes in
Cambridge. They do work, but no, they don't make
CD's sound as good as vinyl...
Bruce Kinch
Editor, Primyl Vinyl Exchange
"Old records never die...they seek their vinyl resting place"
PO Box 67109
Chestnut Hill, MA 02167
Click here
to go to American Science Surplus' www site.
Other places you may wanna try (thanks Todd for the info!):
Fair Radio Sales Co.
1016 E. Eureka St.
Lima, Ohio 45802
419.223.2196/227.6573
24hr fax 419.227.1313
C and H
2176 E. Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91107
Voice: (213) 681.4925
(818) 796.2628
Fax (818) 796.4875
Toll Free USA: (800) 325.9465
Click here
to see the next tweaks page.
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