Audioholics Anonymous Chapter 5
Interconnect And Loudspeaker Cable Part I
Article By Bill Gaw
Hello fellow Audioholics,
welcome to another meeting of Audiolics Anonymous, our support group for the insatiably
tweaked.
First, thanks for the kind letters I have been receiving about the previous
columns. It is great to see there's somebody else other than Steve Rochlin,
who's reading my prose. It also lets me know you are doing something else other than sitting there and just
tweaking.
This month, I've decided to
discuss the fun I've had with building my own interconnects and speaker cable.
I know. You've been told how difficult it is to come up with the perfect cable,
how impossible it is to get just the right materials, how implausible it is for
an amateur to be able to combine all of the materials just right in order to
obtain the ultimate, but Brother, are THEY wrong. I have come upon the
tweaker's dream - homemade cables that shame most of the best out there at a
fraction of the cost and fun to build to boot!
First, to all of those flat Earther's and other doubters who feel
that all cables sound the same if the LCR measurements are equal, go listen to
music on your Bose Wave Radios. I am sorry but all cables have their own
distinct sounds, even if the LCR measurements are the same. Second, to all of those wire companies who
charge the equivalent of the annual budget of Guatemala for a 1 meter length of
interconnect, stop ripping off the high end community. $15000 for a pair of
speaker cables is a greater rip-off than $700 for a B-52 toilet seat. I know
that there can be years of experimentation, fancy packaging and, advertising
costs, etc., that add to the costs of cables, but some of the prices would make
the Mafia happy.
I also fell into the trap years ago of more expensive must be
better, but it isn't always so. I had a friend, who died several years ago,
who was one of the original high end cable manufacturers. He once told me a
story of how when he first started producing cable, he came out with a very
reasonably priced line and brought it to the CES. Many dealers agreed that it
was great cable, but not one picked up the line. Reason? It was too cheap.
There wasn't enough profit margin. High enders would see the price and think it
couldn't be any good. One even suggested that if he doubled the retail price,
added a higher profit margin for the dealers, that it would sell. So the
following year, he changed the color of the shell, doubled the price and sold
enough wire to put him in business and wire half of Manhattan. Each year
afterward, he would change some parameter, such as the color of the wrapping,
the number of individual wires, the packaging, etc., give it another name,
raise the price, and sell more of that one than last year's model. Did it sound
any better? He claimed not, but it certainly improved his bottom line.
Don't get me wrong. I am not
trying to play into the hands of the “all wire sounds the same" crowd, because
it doesn't. Just don't be fooled into thinking something sounds better because
it costs more. There are differences in quality of wire which will lead to
different costs, sound, etc., and wires will act differently in different
systems, depending on the equipment it is hooked up to, its surroundings, the
type of music played, the surrounding RF environment, etc. There will be
circumstances when a less expensive wire will sound better in a particular
system compared to the super expensivo brother of the line. I have seen
cases where a particular interconnect will sound poor at one point in the
system, and great at another place. That's the great thing about tweaking with
wire. It has so many permutations that we could play forever with the
combinations. But that is also the disadvantage, as you could go crazy trying.
I usually have to laugh when I see reviews of wire in the big mags, where they
hook it up to one or two systems in one or two places, and then make broad
statements as to its qualities. There is no
perfect wire that lets the signal go from any piece of equipment to any
other without changing the signal at all.
It doesn't exist, but the hobbyist can come very close.
What parameters have I found to
be important? First, INDUCTANCE (L), RESISTANCE (R), and CAPACITANCE (C), are
important. Everyone agrees the less resistance of the wire to flow of
electrons, the better, and that the capacitance (storage) and inductance (AC
variable resistance) build low and high pass crossovers, which may affect the
frequencies passed. These can make or break a wire, and I'm sorry to say the
equipment connected to it if sufficiently high, but there are other parameters
that are just as important.
To use an analogy, think of the signal as actually a relay race,
with the signal being several batons of varying sizes and weights which are
being handed from runner to runner, with several teams in a row. Then the below
analogies will be understandable.
1. THE
THINNER THE CONDUCTOR THE BETTER, TO A POINT. The electrons (runners)
themselves don't move very far in the wire, they just pass on the signal (
baton) from electron to electron, But
the runners are actually trying to run on a semisolid substance, so that the
heavier runners with heavier batons (lower pitch tones) sink into the wire to a
depth indirectly proportional to
their frequency (weight). This slows
down the lower notes related to their higher pitched brethren, the so called SKIN
EFFECT, causing smearing of the image. I know. Some will say this is
unimportant at the low frequencies of audio, but believe me, it is. So if the
wire is very thin, the deeper notes don't have to slog through so much mud, and
therefore can keep up better. This only works up to a point though with round
wire, because, the smaller the diameter, the higher the RESISTANCE to flow. We
don't want a filament resisting the
flow of electrons, i.e. a light bulb. So what's the answer? Make it as flat as
possible, but wide enough to drop the resistance. Voila!! Less RESISTANCE and
SKIN EFFECT. How? Use FOIL instead of wire. Get a high surface area
with low resistance to flow and less or
no SKIN EFFECT. Eat your cake and have it too. Only problem! The thinner
the foil, the more chance of breakage. So there is a limit theoretically, but I
have found that thinner does sound better. How thin is ideal: about 0.05
mm. Significantly thinner than aluminum foil.
2. THE
PURER THE BETTER. At least in metals at room temperature, the higher the
purity of the material, the better the signal. Six or Seven Nines if possible (
99.9999% pure). If each runner is
evenly matched for strength, endurance, and speed, the closer the race will be.
Same with signals. This may change if they can get Super-Conductivity up to
room temperature, where mixing metals with ceramics can lead to extremely low
resistance, and much purer signal carrying.
but for now I think it holds. I know some of the wire designers out
there have started to go from SIX NINES wire to alloys, but I haven't seen any
results that change my feeling on the subject, and it is probably a new
marketing ploy, as they have run out of configurations, high purity and size to
differentiate their products.
3. THE
LOWER THE RESISTANCE AND THE HIGHER THE CONDUCTIVITY OF THE METAL THE BETTER. Thus, lead
is higher that copper and silver. It has the highest conductivity and
lowest resistance, and therefore can be made thinner thus improving the SKIN
EFFECT, without increasing the RESISTANCE. It also has the property that its
oxide is still pretty good at conduction, unlike copper's, so there is
less risk of deterioration of the sound over time as that pesky oxygen and
other contaminants get to our wire. This is the main reason that copper wire is
coated with silver: to allow the copper to remain oxygen free, and also to
allow the wire to slip easier through the insulation. One could stipulate that
the signal would run through the silver on the surface, and not through the
copper, but I doubt this as there is no insulation between the two. In just
about every wire using this technique, I have felt there to be some sort of
glare or shininess to the sound.
4.THE
LOWER THE DIELECTRIC CONSTANT OF THE INSULATION, THE BETTER. Each strand of
the wire in the cable is usually insulated from the others, even on the same
legs of the wires. The higher the dielectric constant of the insulation, the
more energy from the signal will be held back and distorted. Think of the runners having to fight against varying
headwinds. Thus, AIR or a VACUUM is the best dielectric, followed by Teflon and
from there downhill. So the ideal would be for each wire to be separated only
by air or a vacuum with possibly a thin coating of some material to stop
oxidation. The problem with this obviously is that we'd have our wires hanging
all over the room, there would be a chance for short circuit of the signal, and
there would be no protection from RF interference, due to the fact that there
would be no shielding.
5. THE
FEWER THE STRANDS OF WIRE, THE BETTER. Wire makers over the years have been
making their cables more and more complex, for many reasons, not the least of
which, the more complicated, the more they can charge, and the more they can
advertise the difference between their product and the competition. Originally,
it was done to decrease the size of each strand without increasing the
resistance to flow. Also the individual legs were twisted on each other to
increase RF rejection. The more wires, the more twists and turns have to be
used. This leads to increasingly complex geometries, to try to make all of the
wires in the bundle travel the same distance, since, if the wires were allowed
to be either on the inside or outside, then the individual strands would be of
different lengths. Just think of our runners in different lanes that
crisscross, with the outer lanes having to run further unless they cross over
and become the short lanes. Think some of the runners might become disoriented,
not run up to par, not pass their
batons off correctly, or even bump into each other. Sounds chaotic,
doesn't it. In audio, SIMPLER IS BETTER.
6. THE
FEWER SHIELDS THE BETTER. Shields are used to cut out RF, which is found in
ever increasing amounts in our environment. The shields would be the equivalent
of placing screens around the stadium so our runners won't be hit by debris
thrown from the stands, causing all sorts of interference with the signal. The problem is the shield also
interacts with the signal, again muddying it unless it is kept far enough away.
But in order to do this, more insulation has to be added, which increases the
dielectric (capacitance) signal storage and blurring. A simple way to overcome
this is to run the wires as twisted pairs, or parallel, which allows the wire
to self-block the RF. The problem with this is that it adds capacitance to the
cable, which is not always appreciated by the equipment, and if high enough,
may act as a crossover in the audio
range.
7. THE
LONGER THE CRYSTALS, THE BETTER. Each strand of wire is made up of a
crystal lattice, with the crystals of varying sizes and lengths. Where crystals
meet, there are discontinuities which may be open space, or filled with some
contaminant. Now the relay race has turned into a Steeple Chase, with each
runner having to overcome barriers. If there are no discontinuities, then the
electrons flow smoother.
8. THE
CLOSER THE SOLDER METAL IS TO THE CONDUCTOR, THE BETTER. Silver to silver,
is ideal. We don't want a 6"7" runner having to hand off to a 5'1" runner now
do we? Unhappily, due to the high melting point of silver, the more silver in
the solder, the harder it is to work with. But Radio Shack makes a very good
and reasonably priced silver solder which has worked well for me.
9. THE SIMPLER THE CONNECTOR, AND THE CLOSER THE METAL TO THE CONDUCTOR, THE
BETTER. Thus a thin flimsy connector made of the same metal as the
conductor would be very good, and directly soldering the wire to the
equipment's circuit board, input socket, etc., is ideal. Also, plating of the
connector is also a no-no for sound, but normally is done to decrease
degradation (oxidation). The problem is that we have produced a discontinuity
again, and maybe even several, as the big manufacturers sometimes use several
layers of different metal platings on each connector. The answer: Either hard
wire, or if you are using silver cable, get some simple silver connectors and
clean them well, and coat them with (TWEAK OF THE MONTH) CAIG DeoxIT GOLD (formerly ProGold)
. This
not only seals the silver from oxidation, but also causes a molecular bridge
from the cable to equipment connectors,
producing a tunneling effect, which allows the electrons to flow
smoothly through the gap. This stuff
also works wonderfully on all other interconnects, speaker cables and AC
cords and outlets. But you must thoroughly clean off the oxides first for it to
work best. Hint: try (SECOND TWEAK OF THE MONTH) CAIG
R-5 CLEANER. You'll be amazed (and we offer a sample for free by clicking
here --ed).
As
you can see, building interconnect is not as easy as you supposed. On the other
hand, there is a technique which solves
most of the problems, can be done by the average home enthusiast, is moderate
in cost, and produces wonderful sound, i.e., SILVER FOIL CABLE. I first began experimenting with this about
two years ago after reading an article by Allen Wright, which was based on the
writings of Prof. Malcolm Hawksford. I
was intrigued enough to order Allen's book, THE SUPER CABLES COOKBOOK, and have been experimenting along with Kwami
Ofori -Asante, a fellow high end nutzo, ever since. Next month, I'll
write about my findings, and how you can build possibly the best interconnect
and speaker cable available, for about $50 per meter pair. I have compared them
to $1000 plus cables and have come away victorious.
If you are curious in the
meantime, I would suggest you go to Allen's website Vacuumstate.
Follow-Up -- Paraglow Amps
The Paraglow amps which I discussed in last
month's column have now been functioning for two months in my system,
and, wonder of wonders, I haven't had the slightest inclination to remove them and try something
else (damn, i was hoping to get them --ed). As
they have broken in, they have only improved on their strengths. One hint
though: Get rid of the Chinese 2A3's that come with the units, and buy a pair
of KR 2A3's from Welborne Labs.
They are worth every penny. I will be getting some of the new Vaic tubes soon
and will let you know how they compare.
That's it for this month. Have a
great Thanksgiving.